Passion

Patek Philippe adds to the charisma of its famous World Time watch Among seasoned travelers and businesspeople who have a penchant for extraordinary mechanical watches, the Patek Philippe Word Time enjoys cult status. It is now available in a new version with a slightly enlarged case, a smartly updated dial, and an unusual ring-shaped hour hand. New horizons open up for a timeless classic.

A global celebrity
At the International Meridian Conference in Washington, D.C., in 1884, universal time was adopted and the world was officially divided into 24 time zones. Ever since, watchmakers have tried to outdo each other with clever ideas for displaying multiple time zones. In 1930, Patek Philippe presented its internationally acclaimed World Time wristwatch with two rotating discs that made it possible to simultaneously display the time in all 24 zones. Today, these timepieces crafted from the 1930s to the 1960s fetch astronomical prices at auctions. In 2000, the Geneva workshops took the functionality of this watch a step further by integrating a singlebutton mechanism to advance all displays collectively when moving from one time zone to another – without affecting the rate accuracy of the movement by even one second. It took four years to develop this patented mechanism which bolstered the popularity of the World Time watch on all continents.

A fresh, aesthetic look
Patek Philippe has dedicated this watch to modern nomads with its fresh aesthetic appeal. The diameter of the round case, which is in the classic Calatrava style and available in 18K rose or white gold, was slightly enlarged from 37 mm to 39.5 mm. Along with providing improved readability, the watch is more prominent on the wrist yet remarkably thin despite the complexity of its movement. The subtly reinterpreted dial was inspired by the first Ref. 1415 HU World Time watches from the 1930s. The enlargement of the case allowed the watchmakers to broaden the width of the exterior rotating disc showing the 24 time zones, making the names of the 24 reference cities even more legible. The center of the dial is decorated with a new guilloché sunburst pattern, and the distinctive hour markers give the watch a dynamic, contemporary look. The eye-catching, ring-shaped hour hand is reminiscent of historic Patek Philippe World Time watches, reserved exclusively for this type of timepiece. Its shape symbolizes the globe and reinforces the cosmopolitan personality of the watch. The new Ref. 5130 has a sapphire-crystal back and is worn on a hand-stitched, matte navy blue alligator strap in the white gold model and a matte dark brown strap in the rose gold version. The foldover clasp matches the case. This watch replaces the Ref. 5110 that was launched in 2000.

A paragon of convenience
In spite of the complexity of its self-winding caliber 240 HU movement, the Ref. 5130 is ingeniously simple to use. The central part of the dial accommodates the hour and minute hands that indicate local time and is encircled by two rotating discs. The outer disc bears the names of the 24 cities that stand for the 24 time zones. The visible part of the inner disc, which turns counterclockwise, is a graduated 24-hour ring with a dark segment and moon symbol for the nocturnal hours and a bright segment with a sun symbol for the daytime hours. Local time is displayed for the city and associated time zone indicated by the red marker at 12 o’clock. The time in any of the other 23 time zones is shown on the 24-hour disc at the position directly opposite the respective city name. This watch is most useful when a trip traverses one or more time zones as the Ref. 5130 does not need to be stopped and requires no cumbersome adjustments or calculation of the time difference between two locations. Instead, the button at 10 o’clock only needs to be pressed as many times as it takes to align the name of the city in the destination time zone with the red arrow at 12 o’clock. Each time the button is pressed, the hour hand for local time advances by one hour while the 24-hour disc and the city disc move counterclockwise by one interval. Thanks to an ingenious, patented coupling mechanism, this intervention does not influence the precise progression of the minute hand. This instant correction feature that executes three commands with a single press of the button is exclusive to Patek Philippe World Time watches.
Technical data Ref. 5130 World Time Movement: Caliber 240 HU Self-winding mechanical movement, indication of 24 time zones, day/night indicator Diameter: 27.50 mm Height: 3.88 mm Number of parts: 239 Number of jewels: 33 Power reserve: Max. 48 hours Winding rotor: Unidirectional mini-rotor in 22K gold Balance: Gyromax Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz) Balance spring: Flat Stud: Movable Functions: Two-position crown: - Pulled out: to set time - Pushed in: to wind watch Time zone correction button (at 10 o’clock): Synchronized correction of displays in one-hour jumps for the hour hand and by 1/24 counterclockwise turns for the city and 24- hour disks Displays: Hours and minutes City disk 24-hour disc with day/night indication by color and sun/moon symbols Hallmark: Geneva Seal Features Case: 18K rose or white gold Screwed 18K rose or white gold back with sapphire crystal Water-resistant to 25 meters Case dimensions: Diameter: 39.50 mm Thickness: 9.40 mm Width between lugs: 21 mm Continued 4 Rose gold dial: Three-zone dial: - City disk, black transfer-printed - 24-hour disk with day/night indication by color and sun/moon symbols (day: black numerals on silver background; night: white numerals on brown background) - Silvery sunburst guilloché center White gold dial: Three-zone dial: - City disk, blue transfer-printed - 24-hour disk with day/night indication by color and sun/moon symbols (day: blue numerals on silver background; night: white numerals on blue background) - Silvery sunburst guilloché center Ring-shaped hour hand in 18K rose or white gold Dauphine minute hand in black nickel-plated 18K rose or white gold Applied baton hour markers in black oxidized 18K rose or white gold Strap: Alligator with large rectangular scales, hand-stitched, matte dark brown for rose gold model, matte navy blue for white gold model, with fold-over clasp in 18K rose or white gold to match the case

Patek Philippe has unveiled a new annual calendar watch, the Pulsomax Ref. 5450.  An exclusive product of the Patek Philippe Advanced Research Department, this limited edition platinum watch is much more than just another attractive Annual Calendar.  It represents a continued evolution which dates back to 2005–the year that the Manufacture brought forth it’s Ref. 5250 watch, which debuted a Silinvar escape wheel.  The following year, Ref. 5350 was shown, which featured another silicon innovation–the Spiromax hairspring.  Now, in 2008, the escapement structure has been completed, with a pallet fork in silicon–which Patek Philippe has named “Pulsomax”.   Like its predecessors, the Ref. 5450 watch has a magnified section on its sapphire back which invites viewing of the escapement group.

Along with Ulysse Nardin, Patek Philippe has made great strides into researching the potential uses of silicon components, and the way these can greatly extend the service life and precision of the mechanical watch.  The extremely precise Pulsomax pallet fork and Silinvar escape wheel–which are both highly resistant to corrosion and impervious to magnetism–have truly excellent anti-friction properties, and unlike the steel components in a traditional Swiss lever escapement (the system used in most watches made today) do not require any lubrication.  Even better, because of their light weight compared to the conventional parts, energy transfer that the escapement supplies to the balance wheel is greatly improved.

It’s both fascinating and gratifying to see Patek Philippe pursuing the science of chronometry actively today, following up their legendary history as a major player during the fabled chronometer competitions of the early to mid 20th century.  The fortunate individuals who can acquire one of these Advanced Research Annual Calendar watches will thus have a fine timepiece which carries on a historically rich legacy of horological innovation.

Nel corso dell’asta oganizzata da Sotheby’s a Ginevra, sono stati venduti 159 orologi, per un incasso complessivo di 10,9 milioni di franchi. La quotazione più alta è stata ottenuta da un raro cronografo Patek Philippe, passato di mano per 2,35 milioni di franchi (pari a circa 2,25 milioni di dollari). Apparteneva al conte Carlo Felice Trossi che fu presidente della Ferrari.

Il lotto, di alto valore simbolico, ha scatenato un’accesa competizione fra i partecipanti, che si sono sfidati a suon di rialzi. Nella stessa seduta altri due cronografi sono stati venduti a prezzi da amatore: il primo è andato a un collezionista europeo per 1,05 milioni di franchi, l’altro a un facoltoso cultore americano per 945 mila unità della stessa valuta.

With Baselworld right upon us, many watch manufacturers are revealing their carefully concealed new models, or sophisticated technical surprises. Patek Philippe is always a brand to watch, and seldom misses the opportunity to reveal their horological prowess. This year, Patek has revealed yet another stunning high complication, which is absolutely beautiful. While not as revolutionary as say, the Sky-Moon Tourbillon, or the Star Caliber 2000 watches, it will certainly be highly coveted, extraordinarily valuable, and quite probably, a serious horological investment.

The new Patek Philippe Ref. 5207 has the potential to join the great ranks of modern Patek Philippe complication legends, such as the Ref. 5016, or the Ref. 5074. The platinum case of this new model is gorgeous, and has a great deal of Calatrava influence in it, particularly the flowing lines of the Ref. 5127. The window-type displays for the perpetual calendar effectively employ the legible yet elegant aesthetics of the brand’s acclaimed annual calendars. The beige color scheme is sublimely gorgeous, and is set off wonderfully by the polished platinum indices and dauphine hands. The moonphase display is classic Patek Philippe all the way, its charm counter-balanced by the magical inscription “tourbillon” just below, which hints at the wondrous mechanism that lies beneath the dial.

Naturally, the manufacture movement is an absolute tour-de-force. The Geneva Sealed RTO 27 PSQI combines three of the most exalted high complications, including a tourbillon and a minute repeater; incidentally, when connoisseurs get together to discuss which repeaters consistently have the best acoustic performance, the answer is invariably “Patek Philippe”. As is the case with all Patek Philippe tourbillon movements, this one has earned COSC chronometer certification, a rare distinction among the tourbillon elite. The caliber is distinguished in every aspect of its finish; particularly eye-catching is the elegantly beveled tourbillon bridge, and the black-polished repeater hammers.

Grand Complication. There is a difference of opinion among horologist as to what constitutes a Grand Complication. Some define a grand complication as one having at least one complication from the three different groups: Timing, astronomical and striking complications. Other horologist claim that there are three grand complications, the Tourbillon, the Minute Repeater and the Perpetual Calendar.

Perpetual Calendar. Many watches display the date on their dial. But since some months have only thirty, twenty-nine of twenty-eight days, you need to adjust the date at least five time per year. A perpetual calendar is a mechanism that automatically takes into account the varying number of days in each month as well as leap years so that the watch displays the correct date each month without the need of adjuctment. A perpetual calendar watch will not need correction for more then a century.

Patek Philippe has played a key role in the development of the perpetual calendar mechanism. In 1889, Patek Philippe obtained a patent for the “Perpetual calendar mechanism” for pocket watches. In 1925, Patek Philippe created the first perpetual calendar wristwatch. Patek Philippe began regular production of Perpetual calendar wristwatches in 1941. Development continued, a more recently, Patents for Secular Perpetual calendar with retrograde hand for the Annual calendar mechanism were obtained by Patek Philippe in 1986 and 1996.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5159. The Patek Philippe Ref. 5159 is one of the company’s grand complication watches. It is a perpetual calendar watch with the retrograde complication.

The Patek Philippe Ref. 5159 is a revision of the Ref. 5059, with the case diameter being enlarged by 2 mm, to a size of 38 millimeters. Powering the Ref. 5159 is Patek’s caliber 315 S QR movement. S stands for sweep seconds, Q for perpetual calendar, and R for the retrograde date with the flyback hand.

The self winding movement produces 28,800 vibrations per hour, resulting in a smooth sweeping seconds hand. The movement has a 44 hour power reserve. The movement automatically recognizes the duration of each month and keeps track of leap years.

The dial of the watch displays the day and month in apertures at the 9 and 3 o’clock positions. The date is displayed by a red-tipped fourth hand, which runs from the 8 o’clock to the 4 o’clock position. This hand moves clockwise from the 8 o’clock to the 4 o’clock position, along a 270 degree arc, slowly over the period of one month, and than jumps back to the number 1 at the end of the month moving in the reverse direction. This is the retrograde motion.

The month setting, tells the watch whether it should send the hand back to 1 after the 28th, 30th or 31st day. A small aperture just below the 12 o’clock displays the Roman numerals I, II, III or IV. This is the leap year indicator. When it displays a I, II or III, the watch will send the date hand back to one after the 28th day of the month of February. When it reads IV, the watch will send the date hand back to one after the 29th day of the month of February.

The month setting and the leap year setting allows the watch to adjust the movement of the date hand accordingly, this creating a perpetual calendar mechanism.

The Ref. 5159 also has of the moon-phase mechanism which remains accurate for 122 years and 45 days, and then only has to be corrected by one day.

To execute these complicated functions, 361 individual parts must interact in perfect harmony. A sapphire-crystal case back reveals the intricate self-winding mechanism and the 21K gold rotor. A dust cover protects the sapphire crystal case back.
The Ref. 5159 is available in 18K yellow (Ref. 5159Y) or white gold (Ref. 5159G) . It tis worn on an alligator strap with an 18K foldover clasp. The yellow-gold watch has a matte chocolate strap and the white-gold model comes with a matte dark brown strap.

With a retail price of just over US$80,000, it is neither the most expensive nor he most complicated watch Patek Philippe has created. It is still an amazing piece of watchmaking, and in my opinion one of the best example of complication watchmaking in the Patek Philippe lineup. It is impressively complicated, without cramming in so many complications as to make it appear that the watch was created solely for the purpose of making it complicated. Every complication in this watch all leads to the same end, a perpetual calendar displayed in Arabic and astronomical terms.

About Patek Philippe. Patek Philippe & Co. was founded in Switzerland in 1851. The companies emblem, the Calatrava Cross, was adopted by it at the end of the 19th Century. It is acknowledged as one of the finest, if not the finest, watchmaker in the world.