Passion

Un libro dedicato agli orologi più belli della casa svizzera per celebrarne il centenario

Rolex festeggia nel 2008 il suo centenario e lo fa, tra le altre cose, con un libro edito da Damiani dedicato ai cento orologi più belli della manifattura, “100 Superlative Rolex Watches”.

L’autore, John Goldberger, collezionista e studioso di orologi, ha trovato gli esemplari con un paziente lavoro di ricerca presso i maggiori collezionisti di molti Paesi del mondo e li ha fotografati in modo da evidenziare al meglio le caratteristiche di movimento, cassa e quadrante.

Con più di 700 immagini a colori e oltre 400 didascalie, le pagine di questo libro rendono note al collezionista, ma anche al semplice appassionato, una grande quantità di informazioni e dettagli per ogni singolo pezzo, presentato: reference number, casse, quadranti, movimenti, calibri e anno di produzione.

Il volume è diviso in sette capitoli: I primi anni; Oyster; Cronografi e fasi lunari; Cronografi Oyster e fasi lunari Oyster; Datejust, Day-Date; Modelli Sportivi; Cosmograph.

rolex 2008

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 The Milgauss comes in the new, slightly larger case size of 40mm, with the 3131 movement. There are white and black dial versions available, both with a nifty and surprisingly modern lightning shaped second hand and ‘ROLEXROLEXROLEX’ around the face on the chapter ring. (As Christian noted, for better or worse, the new models are more heavily branded than their predecessors.) One difference between the two versions is that the black dial has a sapphire crystal that is slightly green at an angle, as you can see from the image gallery on their site. List price on both is rumored to be $5,900.

Nelle foto sotto a confronto due Sea Dweller, uno originale ed uno ben imitato.

Sotto le foto troverete il link con l’articolo originale del  Dr. Peter McClean Millar.

http://petemillar.com/rolex/rolex.htm

Divers Watches - 300-2000 m. Specialized watches are created to meet specialized needs. Reliable timekeeping underwater is one such need. Typically, a watch today sold as a “Divers Watch” should be rated as being water resistant to at least 300 meters. Many watchmakers build divers watches for more extreme needs. Omega’s Planet Ocean is rated as water resistant to 600 meters. Panerai’s Luminor Submersible 1950 is rated as being water resistant to 1000 meters. Oris’ Carlos Coste Limited Edition is rated as being water resistant to an amazing 2000 meters.

Baselworld 2008: Rolex Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA - 3900 m. Rolex’s offers two divers watches, the Submariner and the Sea-Dweller, with water resistance ratings of 300 m and 1220 m respectively. At Basel 2008, Rolex unveiled a new version of the Sea-Dweller, the Sea Dweller DEEPSEA with a unprecedented (for a mechanical watch) water resistance rating of 3900 meters.

In order to achieve the 3900m water resistance rating, the Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA required the design of a case with a unique architecture, the Ringlock System. This innovation patented by Rolex consists of a combination of three distinctive features:

1. The high-performance ring. Set inside the middle case of the watch between the crystal and the case back, the high-performance nitrogen-alloyed stainless steel ring withstands the pressure exerted by water on the crystal and the case back. The middle case is made from 904L steel.

2. The sapphire crystal. To resist pressure, the synthetic sapphire crystal is slightly domed and substantially thicker than the crystals of other Oyster models.

3. The case back. The case back is made of a titanium alloy, an extremely resistant stainless material. It is held in place against the high-performance ring by means of a 904L-steel ring.

The Triplock winding crown, equipped with three seals and screwed onto the case, completes this ingenious waterproof system.

Bezel and Dial. The Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA has a 43mm bezel, smaller than the 47 mm of the Oris Carlos Coste Limited Edition. Like the Rolex Submariner and Sea-Dweller, the Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA is equipped with a unidirectional rotatable bezel with a 60-minute graduated disc that allows the diver to precisely track his dive time.

The zero marker of the graduated bezel, represented by a triangle, is visible longer at night or in the depths of the ocean thanks to a capsule containing a new luminescent material that emits a blue glow. To enhance legibility, the gold indexes and hands are wider and partially coated with the same new luminescent material and also emit a blue colour.

Movement. The Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA is equipped with the tried and tested Rolex Calibre 3135 movement, known for its chronometric precision, its reliability and its robustness; it also features a PARACHROM hairspring with high resistance to shocks and magnetic fields. Each Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA is certified as a chronometer by the COSC. The movement has a 48-hour power reserve.

The bracelet. Manufactured from solid 904L steel, the Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA bracelet can be adjusted for wear over a diving suit up to 7 mm thick thanks to a double extension system composed of Fliplock extension links and the new Glidelock clasp.

I do not know if there is really a need for a watch that you can take down 4km below sea level. I do not know how many Rolex Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA will actually wind up on divers wrists. But buying premium watches is about buying quality. Building premium watches is about building what no one has built before. You have to give Rolex five stars for going deep.